China's Nanjing Yun Jin: A Millennium of Luxurious Craftsmanship

Nanjing Yun Jin: A Timeless Masterpiece of Craftsmanship

Nanjing Yun Jin, officially known as "Nanjing Yun Jin Wood Loom Handwoven Embroidery Technique," is truly a living treasure of craftsmanship, embodying the saying “寸锦寸金” (every inch of silk is as valuable as gold). And it's not just a metaphor! The craftsmanship behind Yun Jin is highly intricate, involving over a dozen detailed steps, including processes like pattern forming, edge cutting, threading, knotting, flower pulling, shuttle throwing, and many more. Altogether, it adds up to more than a hundred steps, showcasing an unparalleled level of craftsmanship.

In ancient Chinese textiles, "Jin" represented the pinnacle of weaving techniques. Nanjing Yun Jin is a distilled essence of China’s silk weaving expertise and is one of the three most renowned brocades in ancient China. This exquisite art form is mainly found in the five districts of Nanjing: Qinhuai, Jianye, Baixia, Xuanwu, and Qixia.

Did you know? More than 1,500 years ago, historical records mentioned the silk textiles of Nanjing, although no physical examples had survived until then. It wasn't until the late Eastern Jin Dynasty that Nanjing established its first dedicated brocade weaving institution, known as the Douchang Brocade Bureau. After the Song Dynasty moved south, Nanjing became the center of China's silk industry. The production of gold-embroidered brocade in Nanjing began in the Yuan Dynasty, while colored floral gold brocade flourished during the Ming and Qing Dynasties.

Nanjing Yun Jin is traditionally woven using the large flower-patterned wooden loom, requiring two skilled artisans: one to pull the threads (the flower puller) and another to operate the loom (the weaver). This collaborative process demands a great deal of strength and precision, as the artisans follow a series of intricate steps. A skilled flower puller has to memorize a special set of rules: "one toss, two presses, three pulls, four grips, five lifts, six holds, seven pulls, eight cuts, nine throws." Meanwhile, the weaver must use their feet to operate the loom’s opening, throw the shuttle with their hands, recite color combinations from memory, and maintain perfect coordination of their mind, body, and eyes.

Nanjing Yun Jin has four major categories: gold brocade, brocade satin, brocade velvet, and flower embroidery. While modern machines have been able to replicate gold brocade, brocade satin, and brocade velvet, the intricate process of "flower carving" and "color-changing flowers" still requires traditional handcrafting techniques.

Beyond being an intangible cultural heritage of China, Nanjing Yun Jin is an invaluable gem of our national culture. We hope this remarkable craftsmanship continues to be passed down to future generations, allowing more people to understand and appreciate this unique art form.

Nanjing Yun Jin: A Millennia-Old Legacy of Luxurious Craftsmanship

Yun Jin, an ancient craft originating from Nanjing, boasts a history that dates back to the 13th year of the Yixi era in the Eastern Jin Dynasty (417 AD). It was during this time that a special government agency, the Jinshi (Brocade Bureau), was established in Nanjing to oversee brocade production. With over 1,600 years of history, Yun Jin has long been renowned for its brilliant, radiant colors and exquisite beauty, earning it the title of "China's Four Famous Brocades" and being regarded as the finest among them.

Weaving Technique:

Yun Jin is traditionally woven on the large flower-patterned loom. The flower puller sits on the upper part of the loom and is responsible for raising the warp threads, while the weaver sits below, performing the actual weaving, applying gold and color. Due to the complexity of the technique, only about 5-6 centimeters of brocade can be produced in a single day, and this painstaking process still cannot be replaced by machines.

Materials:

The materials used in Yun Jin include gold, silver, and copper threads, as well as silk, satin, and even various bird and animal feathers. These high-quality materials give the brocade its soft texture and vibrant colors, making it highly sought after for its rich appearance and luxurious feel.

Patterns:

The patterns found in Yun Jin are diverse, with over a hundred distinct designs. Common motifs include dragons, phoenixes, cranes, mandarin ducks, as well as various floral and bird patterns. A notable feature of Yun Jin is its intricate gold-thread patterns, which often form continuous square patterns.

A Cultural Treasure:

Yun Jin is not just a masterpiece of craftsmanship; it is a living testament to the grandeur of Chinese civilization, a cultural gem that has been passed down through the ages. As part of China’s intangible cultural heritage, it holds a special place in the hearts of the nation.

This incredible art form is one of the many priceless treasures of our heritage, and we have countless stories to share about other aspects of this legacy. Stay tuned for more as we continue to explore the richness of our cultural history.

The Emperor's Dragon Robe

Nanjing Yun Jin: A Millennium of Brocade Weaving Techniques and Cultural Heritage

Nanjing Yun Jin, a traditional silk weaving craft, is renowned for its long history and rich cultural significance. Below is a detailed introduction to Nanjing Yun Jin:

Historical Origins

The history of Nanjing Yun Jin can be traced back to the 13th year of the Yixi era in the Eastern Jin Dynasty (417 AD). During this time, a special government agency called the Jinshi (Brocade Bureau) was established in the capital, Jiankang (modern-day Nanjing), marking the formal birth of Nanjing Yun Jin.

In the Yuan Dynasty, the Mongols’ interest in gold-embellished textiles helped elevate Yun Jin as one of the most precious and highly skilled silk weaving crafts.

During the Ming and Qing Dynasties, Nanjing Yun Jin entered its golden age, becoming a royal tribute and an imperial product, with government-run weaving institutions established in Nanjing. In the Qing Dynasty, the Jiangning Weaving Bureau was set up in Nanjing, where Cao Xueqin’s grandfather, Cao Yin, served as the head for 20 years—Cao Xueqin being the famous author of Dream of the Red Chamber.

Craftsmanship Features

The weaving technique of Nanjing Yun Jin is unique and consists of five major steps: design, pattern selection, raw material preparation, loom construction, and weaving.

Key techniques, such as "through warp, broken weft," are applied to the intricate, large looms, which require two artisans to manually operate the machine in a coordinated manner.

One of the most visually stunning and colorful creations in Yun Jin is the "flower embroidery" (Zhuanghua). This technique involves weaving patterns with a rich color palette, with some fabrics featuring up to twenty or even thirty different color combinations.

Nanjing Yun Jin not only stands as a testament to the advanced silk weaving techniques of ancient China but also serves as an invaluable cultural heritage that has been passed down for over a thousand years.

Pattern Themes

The patterns of Nanjing Yun Jin are incredibly diverse, featuring not only large, intricate floral designs but also a wide range of animals (such as dragons, phoenixes, cranes, and lions) and plants (including the auspicious Baoxianghua flower, lotus, Buddha’s hand, pomegranate, plum, orchid, bamboo, and chrysanthemum).

In addition, there are motifs that convey good fortune, such as the "Eight Treasures," "Hidden Eight Immortals," and symbols like the characters for "happiness" (吉祥) and "longevity" (寿).

Cultural Significance

Nanjing Yun Jin is not only a representative of China’s traditional silk weaving craftsmanship but also a vital part of Chinese cultural heritage.

It embodies the deep philosophical and aesthetic values of the East, reflecting the eternal and cyclical nature of life, a core aspect of Eastern philosophy.

Moreover, Nanjing Yun Jin is closely intertwined with Buddhism, with many of its patterns inspired by Buddhist scriptures. These intricate designs carry profound spiritual meanings, adding to the cultural and religious significance of the craft.

Inheritance and Preservation

Nanjing Yun Jin’s traditional wood loom flower embroidery technique, as the highest level of China’s ancient brocade weaving craftsmanship, was included in the first batch of National Intangible Cultural Heritage in 2006.

In 2009, Nanjing Yun Jin was successfully inscribed on the UNESCO Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity.

The Nanjing Yun Jin Research Institute has been dedicated to the preservation and transmission of this art form. Through initiatives such as market-oriented transformation, the institute works to raise awareness and foster appreciation for Yun Jin among a broader audience.

In conclusion, Nanjing Yun Jin not only showcases the exquisite craftsmanship of ancient Chinese silk weaving but also carries a wealth of historical and cultural significance, making it a priceless treasure of the Chinese nation’s cultural heritage.