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Meiling Palace in Nanjing, Jiangsu: A Whiff of History's Fragrance

 

Exploring the Mystique of Meiling Palace: Song Meiling's Former Residence in Nanjing

Located in Nanjing's Xuanwu District, nestled within the Zhongshan Mausoleum Scenic Area, the Meiling Palace stands as a national key cultural heritage site. Once the residence of Madame Song Meiling, this historic building exudes a profound sense of history and elegance.

Zhongshan Music Stage: A Harmonious Tribute

Situated southeast of the Bo’ai Square within the Zhongshan Mausoleum Scenic Area, the Zhongshan Music Stage was constructed between 1932 and 1933. Covering approximately 4,200 square meters, it was designed as part of the Zhongshan Mausoleum complex to host ceremonies commemorating Dr. Sun Yat-sen, as well as musical performances and public gatherings.

The music stage was designed by renowned architects Guan Songsheng and Yang Tingbao. Construction began in the autumn of 1932 and was completed in August 1933. This thoughtfully designed venue harmonizes with its natural surroundings and offers a unique glimpse into the blend of architectural artistry and functionality.

Zhongshan Mausoleum: A Monument to a Revolutionary Pioneer

The Zhongshan Mausoleum, located on the southern slopes of Purple Mountain, is a historical landmark dedicated to Dr. Sun Yat-sen, a pioneer of China's democratic revolution. Construction of the mausoleum began in January 1926, with the main structures completed in the spring of 1929. On June 1 of the same year, a solemn ceremony was held to inter Dr. Sun’s remains.

The mausoleum’s architecture follows a unique design, with the layout resembling a "Liberty Bell" when viewed from above. Built along the mountain’s contour, the structure combines traditional Chinese architectural styles with Western elements, creating a harmonious blend of Eastern and Western architectural artistry.

Discovering History and Beauty in Nanjing

For history and architecture enthusiasts, visiting Nanjing's iconic landmarks such as Meiling Palace, the Zhongshan Music Stage, and the Zhongshan Mausoleum offers an opportunity to step back in time. These sites not only tell the stories of China's modern history but also showcase the exquisite craftsmanship of their era.

Why not plan a visit to Nanjing and immerse yourself in the rich history and architectural splendor of these remarkable locations?


Meiling Palace: The First Villa of the Republic of China

Some say that "it" resembles a blue-green pendant set into a golden necklace—a symbol of Chiang Kai-shek's deepest affection.

Some say that "it" was a meticulously crafted birthday gift for Soong Mei-ling, known as the "Heart of Purple Mountain."

Some say that "it" had tiles priced at an astonishing $5,000 each, with Chiang Kai-shek sparing no expense to win his beloved’s smile.

The former U.S. ambassador to China, John Leighton Stuart, called "it" the "most exquisite villa in the Far East."

This "Chairman's Residence of the Former National Government," nestled in the heart of Xiaohong Mountain, has indeed amazed history.

From its vantage point overlooking Purple Mountain, its blue-green glazed tiles shimmer brilliantly, captivating all who see it.

The story of this architectural gem intertwines with three key figures: Chiang Kai-shek, Soong Mei-ling, and its designer, Zhao Zhiyou.

Meiling Palace stands as a testament to love, luxury, and history—a must-see treasure for those exploring Nanjing.


Chiang Kai-shek: A Love Etched in History

Deeply devoted to her love of plane trees, Chiang Kai-shek arranged for over 20,000 French plane trees to be planted along the streets of Nanjing, creating the city’s iconic canopy of green.

In the spring of 1931, construction began on the official residence, known as the "Chairman's Residence" or "Xiaohong Mountain Residence," as Chiang Kai-shek was serving as the Chairman of the National Government at the time.

After the National Government relocated back to Nanjing from Chongqing, Chiang Kai-shek and Soong Mei-ling often stayed here for worship and relaxation. It eventually came to be known as the "Meiling Palace," a name that endures as a symbol of their shared history and love.


The Serendipitous Golden Necklace: Plane Trees and Meiling Palace

Construction of Meiling Palace began in 1930, while the outer ring of plane trees around the Zhongshan Mausoleum was planted as early as 1925. The necklace-like shape of these trees surrounding the palace was purely coincidental, yet it has become a legendary feature of the area.

The French plane trees, with their naturally high flavonoid content, turn golden earlier than surrounding trees in the fall. This unique characteristic creates a striking visual effect—an enchanting "golden necklace" amidst a sea of green every autumn, capturing the imagination of all who witness it.


The "Necklace" Design: A Thoughtful Touch by Soong Mei-ling

The iconic "necklace" shape was a result of a deliberate design choice to reroute the driveway to ascend from both sides of the main entrance. This decision was inspired by Soong Mei-ling’s preference for tranquility, as she found the original layout "too noisy" and sought a quieter, more serene environment.

Her thoughtful input not only enhanced the aesthetic appeal of the palace but also left an indelible mark on its historical charm.



Controversy and Construction: The Public Backlash Against the Chairman's Residence

In June 1932, the Nanjing-based Minsheng Daily revealed that the budget for Chiang Kai-shek's official residence had reached a staggering 1 million yuan. Due to financial constraints, the Ministry of Finance allocated 30,000 yuan per month to fund the project.

Amid this controversy, the "September 18 Incident" had unfolded, with Japan's Kwantung Army invading Northeast China. Chiang Kai-shek not only adhered to his non-resistance policy against Japan but also intensified campaigns to suppress the Red Army. This dual approach sparked nationwide protests against Japanese aggression and Chiang’s policies, creating a surge of anti-Chiang sentiment.

To quell public criticism, Chiang ordered the Nanjing Public Works Bureau to temporarily halt construction and conduct a financial audit. The investigation revealed that the project’s budget had initially been set at 240,000 yuan but had already exceeded 360,000 yuan in actual expenditures.

This episode highlighted the tension between national priorities and extravagant government projects during a critical period in modern Chinese history.




Soong Mei-ling: A Serendipitous Discovery

In June 1929, Soong Mei-ling accompanied Chiang Kai-shek to attend the reinterment ceremony of Dr. Sun Yat-sen's remains. During the journey, she came across a picturesque spot on Xiaohong Mountain, located on the southwestern side of the Zhongshan Mausoleum.

This discovery would later play a significant role in the creation of Meiling Palace, blending her keen eye for beauty with a deep connection to the historical significance of the area.


The location is elevated and spacious, offering a broad view. On one side, you can see the Ming Xiaoling Mausoleum, and on the other side, the Zhongshan Mausoleum. Nearby is also the National Revolutionary Army Orphans School, which was founded by Soong Mei-ling herself.






At the time, Soong Mei-ling and Chiang Kai-shek were living in a small Western-style building on Huangpu Road in Nanjing, within the Central Military Academy. After seeing this piece of land, she proposed to Chiang Kai-shek:

"Could we build a vacation villa here? Not only could we rest during our trips to visit the mausoleum, but we could also come here on weekends to relax."

In the fall of 1930, Chiang Kai-shek submitted a proposal to the Cemetery Management Committee, stating:
"I plan to build a villa on Xiaohong Mountain within the mausoleum area."



Construction began in June 1931, with the project covering an area of 120 acres. The main building was constructed on the top of Xiaohong Mountain, featuring a grand, classical palace-style roof that shone with splendor and exuded an imposing presence.

The contractor for the main building, Xinjinji Kanghao, was one of the most powerful contractors in China at the time. They had successfully undertaken significant projects, including the China Bank Building on the Bund and the second phase of construction at the Zhongshan Mausoleum, showcasing their strength and expertise.


Zhao Zhiyou: The Architect Behind Meiling Palace

In 1927, with the capital relocation to Nanjing, the National Government launched the "Capital Plan" to promote national confidence. As part of this effort, it was decided that important buildings should incorporate "traditional Chinese forms."

To achieve this, the design had to balance Chinese architectural revival with the Westernized lifestyle of Soong Mei-ling. Thus, Meiling Palace was created with a clever fusion of East and West, often described as "Western bones, Chinese skin."

The architect of Meiling Palace was Zhao Zhiyou, who was the Director of Nanjing's Public Works Bureau at the time.

Zhao had studied in France, where he learned municipal and civil engineering in Paris. He was also a member of the Tongmenghui, and enjoyed a close personal friendship with Chiang Kai-shek and Soong Mei-ling. Given his strong ties with the couple, they trusted him to design this significant project.


Cross-sectional Survey Drawing of Meiling Palace


The exterior features a large roof modeled after the Qing Dynasty palace architecture, covered with blue-green glazed tiles. The porch and eaves are also adorned with glazed tiles, creating a shimmering, eye-catching effect.


The entire Meiling Palace is adorned with over 1,000 phoenix motifs. The large palace roof, surrounded by glazed tiles, features more than 1,000 water-draining hooks along the eaves, with each hook intricately carved with a lifelike phoenix.


At the center of the roof above the main gate of the residence is a rare double phoenix design. On the south side of the residence, a viewing platform called "Guanfeng Tai" was built, surrounded by 34 Qing-style white marble railings, each intricately carved with phoenix patterns. Interestingly, when the house was being designed in 1930, Soong Mei-ling was 34 years old, a remarkable coincidence.


The ceiling of the southern porch features traditional Chinese "Xuanzi" decorative painting. Zhao Zhiyou invited the renowned master of fine brushwork, Chen Zhifo, to specially create a pattern of larks and coral flowers on a blue background. The vibrant colors and intricate details make the artwork exceptionally beautiful.


The most glorious and frequently used period of Meiling Palace was between 1945 and 1948. After the victory in the War of Resistance, and with the National Government returning to Nanjing, Chiang Kai-shek and Soong Mei-ling would spend their weekends at the palace. They held banquets, balls, and entertained guests from all walks of life.


Chiang Kai-shek transformed the original reception room on the third floor into a chapel, named "Victory Chapel" (Kaige Tang). On weekends, senior military officers from the National Government, as well as Christian relatives of Chiang and Soong Mei-ling, would gather there to attend services.


Until 2012, Meiling Palace underwent a major renovation. The restoration was based on the original blueprints and memoirs left behind by those who had experienced the palace. Old artifacts were carefully restored, and the palace officially opened to the public in 2013.

Today, this building, which reflects the aesthetics of the Republican era and carries profound historical and cultural significance, still quietly sits atop Xiaohong Mountain in Nanjing.


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